Hello my fellow October All About the Band mates! My observation of sewists is they love to learn - and they love to show off what they just learned. Which is very much why I LOVE sewists and am honored to count myself amongst them. So, what did I learn? A TON - once again, from Mike Maldonado’s shirtmaking institute (www.shirtmakinginstitute.com or mikemoldanoado.com). He’s got collar band draft videos that are so so so spot on for what I’m seeking to learn right now, that I just had to post again! Here’s another video of me talking about collar band length - but what I find so fascinating is the outer versus the inner band. The Ralf Loren shirts I knock off from my DH’s closet all have the OUTER band interfaced. But the beautiful, stunning, and oh so custom looking “Measure Up” shirts I knocked off from a friend have the INNER band interfaced. Regardless, there is a tale of two bands to tell here. The band that is interfaced is smaller than the non-interfaced band. And why would that be...my first inclination is to respond: well, duh. When you apply interfacing (heat, steam, whatever) it shrinks. Yes. Shrinkage! But there is also geometry involved. If you interface the inner band, that will be smaller, and the excess fabric of the non-interfaced (outer) band with be eased in, and this process with help the band roll around the neck. However, I have observed this application to be true regardless of whether the outer or the inner band is interfaced. Clearly, I’m new here. What do you think? Are you an outie or an innie? Do you want to discover which you are?
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TOOLS
Freezer Paper
The best pattern paper. Iron on a wool setting and it sticks to fabric. Reusable, durable, and transparent enough for tracing.
Tracing Wheel
Spokes aren't too sharp and it works well to trace a temporary line on fabric or paper.
Wavy Rotary Blade
Use in place of pinking shears, quickly trim outside edges of circles.
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