For those following my ABB posts, I’m obsessed with grain line and how to draft a collar band. Enter...Mike Maldonado (mikemaldanodo.com - aka shirtmakiginstitute.com). If you aren’t familiar with Mike, you are about to be introduced to “old time” methods from a friendly expert. I was humbled and (ok, I’m bragging now) delighted to discover many of the approaches I’d “discovered” on my own are already a part of Mike’s standard collar practice. It was validating, but also a reminder that we all come to our tried and true techniques through our own practice. Once again, it’s not THE way, it’s A way. What a great way to approach life! But back to the collar band. See the attached video to follow me with my observation of grain. Mike’s draft also has the center front on grain (parallel) to center back. He notes that European drafters tend to kick up the center front to be off grain. Note my drafted collar band (the Mike way) versus the Burda pattern (more along the Euro vision of collar bands). What are your experiences with drafting or wearing collar bands?
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TOOLS
Freezer Paper
The best pattern paper. Iron on a wool setting and it sticks to fabric. Reusable, durable, and transparent enough for tracing.
Tracing Wheel
Spokes aren't too sharp and it works well to trace a temporary line on fabric or paper.
Wavy Rotary Blade
Use in place of pinking shears, quickly trim outside edges of circles.
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